LINE OUTPUT CONVERTOR // REMOTE WIRE RUN // DASH REMOVAL

Right off the bat, the panels on the passenger side remove the same way as the drivers. The rear seat bottom should stay out as you will need to run wires under it.

First, open the glove box to access the carbon trim piece. With your fingers, locate the clips that hold the panel in. Move from the glove box to the drivers side. Once over the display, carefully tug on the panel until it its loose.

Make damn sure you go from the glove box to the drivers side first. The passenger side has a hook and can be easily removed once the drivers side is removed first.

Once the trim piece is removed, that will expose 2 screws for the HU and 2 screws for the vent/navigation panel. I went ahead and removed the vent panel as well so I could see if the factory Navigation wires were already there. They are not there… but I think I know where.

Once the screws are removed and the vent panel is out of the way, time to remove the HU. There are 4 clips, 2 on each side. From where I am, gently tug to get the passenger side out first. Clips and panels are more easily removed when they are warm, so work in a warm environment.

Once removed, there is a coax cable for the antenna and a power plug that powers the unit. Remove the coax by gently pulling on the connector (NEVER PULL A WIRE BY THE WIRE!! ALWAYS USE THE CONNECTOR!!) and remove the power by pressing up on the clip. The clip is facing downwards once the deck comes out.

NOTE: Here is the part that everyone Emails/PMs/Calls me about… read carefully.

Hold the plug in your hand with the clip facing upwards. The following list is what each and every wires does. It starts from the top left and goes right. Then it goes to the bottom level from the left and goes right. Also, the first color indicates the solid color while the second one indicates the stripe color. “+” means positive, “-“ means negative.

TOP

White/Black – left front +
Gray/Black – left front –
White/Red – right front +
Gray/Red – right front –
White/Purple – left rear +
Gray/White – left rear –
White – rear right +
Gray – rear right –

BOTTOM

Orange/Black – 12v constant
Orange/Black with silver dots – 12v illumination
Yellow with silver dots – 12v ignition
Black/Green – Chassis ground

There is 2 more wires in the bunch. One is the 12v ignition for the antenna and the other is a cell phone mute. I didn’t get the colors as they don’t get used unless using aftermarket deck. The antenna ignition wire is next to the 12v illumination wire.

This plug with an orange cap is what I believe is the navigation harness. I cant prove it as I don’t have the screen/vent yet, but that’s my guess.

Time to open up the shrink tape! Using a razor or dykes, cut a path so that the tape exposes the wires. Be careful not to cut a wire.

You need to cut the wires for the speakers and the LOC. Make sure you leave a good 3” of wire from the plug so that if you ever need to reconnect it, you can. The rears from the HU need to be capped off, and the other side of the wire needs to go to a bunch long enough to make it to the rear of the car. I used the fronts to power the LOC, so after cutting them, the wires from the plug go into another set of wires and the other side goes with the rear bunch. In the LOC bunch, I also tapped in a wire for the remote turn on. I used a T-tap for the remote turn on. That wire is Yellow with silver dots. The wires needs to be fished up and out of the way. Best is to start from the bottom of the center console panel and push the wire up. Once up, loom it around like so and zip tie it to keep it in place and out of the way.

This is what it should look like. The wires going back to the amps and LOC need to be at least 16 feet long and tapped in 12” intervals. Make sure to separate the LOC wires and the speaker wires. Just remember, that when the wire is cut there is 2 sides of it. One is the plug the other is the other side. LOC goes on the plug side, and speakers are on the other side.

Once wiring is complete, time to zip tie them to keep them neat and replace the HU the same way as removal. Remember, that there is more wires than there was, so it may be a little tricky pushing the wire back so the HU sits in its factory location. Play with it, then you’ll master it.

By this time, all the panels should be removed already. This picture shows the carpet and how to creatively folded so that the wire can be strung through. There is a clip that cant be seen so don’t yank on the carpet expecting it to move out of the way. Fish the wires through the carpet and run it just like the power wire.

Once all the wires are in the trunk, its time to replace the rear seat bottom. As you can see, it’s a hook that goes into a pressure fit clip. Just line up and press with a good amount of force. It should pop right in.

The LOC I used was $2.99 from www.partsexpress.com. It’s a simple 4 wire connection. Its not a little box like some of the other ones out there. Its cheap and cheesy but Im also using a Phoenix Gold Line Driver to boost the signal.